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Genie

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5 hours ago, tinker said:

Incidentally once the flow temp gets to 55, 60 or whatever you set it to the boiler heat exchanger stops and just the pump runs, so it's not using that much gas,

Not sure that’s right. The flow temp is the temp of the water out of the boiler. As it circulates through your rads it progressively gets cooler as it loses heat to the rooms. It’ll be (ideally) 20 degrees cooler at the return inlet, so will need to be heated back to 55, 60 or whatever temp you set. Only when your thermostat reaches the preset room temp will the boiler pump and burner turn off.

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8 hours ago, blandy said:

Not sure that’s right. The flow temp is the temp of the water out of the boiler. As it circulates through your rads it progressively gets cooler as it loses heat to the rooms. It’ll be (ideally) 20 degrees cooler at the return inlet, so will need to be heated back to 55, 60 or whatever temp you set. Only when your thermostat reaches the preset room temp will the boiler pump and burner turn off.

It's probably down to my poor explanation, we're sort of saying the same thing.

The burner will turn off (the gas) once the water temp gets to 55 or 60 if the flow temp is set to that temp, even if the room thermostat is set higher the boiler will not heat the water any more than what it's set to. If the return water is less than 55 or 60 then it will kick back in. ( It's not exactly 55/60 as the boiler would cycle on and off too quickly) not sure what the buffer would be as it's decided by an algorithm in the closed loop control system. 

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14 hours ago, tinker said:

even if the room thermostat is set higher the boiler will not heat the water any more than what it's set to

Obviously, you know this, but of course the room 'stat will be set to something around low 20s, maybe 21 degrees, whereas the boiler Water temp for the rads will be set to (say) 55 degrees, so that's way hotter than the room temp. The room will never get to anywhere near that water temp. The key is that the rate of heat loss through walls and air gaps etc to the outside needs to be lower than the rate of transfer of heat from the rads to the room air. In very cold weather, the cooling effect of the heat leaking out through walls, roof and air gaps is much greater than in warmer weather, so the rad temps need to be higher to warm the house up. You can get, for modern boilers, weather compensating gubbinses which automatically adjust the boiler water temp based around the outside temperature, rather than having to fiddle manually with the boiler controls to adjust it up in winter and back down one spring and summer arrive.

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5 hours ago, blandy said:

Obviously, you know this, but of course the room 'stat will be set to something around low 20s, maybe 21 degrees, whereas the boiler Water temp for the rads will be set to (say) 55 degrees, so that's way hotter than the room temp. The room will never get to anywhere near that water temp. The key is that the rate of heat loss through walls and air gaps etc to the outside needs to be lower than the rate of transfer of heat from the rads to the room air. In very cold weather, the cooling effect of the heat leaking out through walls, roof and air gaps is much greater than in warmer weather, so the rad temps need to be higher to warm the house up. You can get, for modern boilers, weather compensating gabbiness which automatically adjust the boiler water temp based around the outside temperature, rather than having to fiddle manually with the boiler controls to adjust it up in winter and back down one spring and summer arrive.

There's a setting on my boiler for this , Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000, wondered if it required am external temperature probe but left it off. 

I'm no expert with boilers , my background is industrial chemical process controls. 

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8 hours ago, tinker said:

There's a setting on my boiler for this , Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000, wondered if it required am external temperature probe but left it off. 

I'm no expert with boilers , my background is industrial chemical process controls. 

Same boiler as mine. That setting is for if one is fitted, then that parameter needs to be set to tell the boiler to accept control signals from the unit.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Submitted latest meter readings today. For the last 27 days or so. Came to £121, which isn't too bad as it included that really cold spell before Xmas. Add back in the £66 rebate that was paid into my account and its £55. 

I can live with that! 

Edited by Xela
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We are still trying to keep our central heating usage down to a minimum but we are going through forests on the multi fuel burner , I get a deal on the logs but coal has gone up ,  our house is so cold it’s on all the time 

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15 hours ago, Xela said:

Also, Shell V-Power unleaded was 162.9, so thats a fair bit cheaper than when it was at its peak. 

Some rip off merchants still out there. Typically EG petrol stations are still around £1.80 a litre for diesel when Asda a mile away was £1.68.

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Has anyone in the thread got any experience with cavity wall insulation? Thinking of having it done but would like to know how I go about ensuring that it is done properly, i.e. the entire cavity is filled. Only thing I can think of is asking the installer if I can look though the entire wall with his borescope but I don't think this is practical..

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Heat pumps are a saviour honestly. 6 grand outlay but electric bills of around 30 quid a month max for everything means we'll probably it off within 2-3 years instead of the 5-7 we originally forecasted.

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18 minutes ago, PeterSw said:

Has anyone in the thread got any experience with cavity wall insulation? Thinking of having it done but would like to know how I go about ensuring that it is done properly, i.e. the entire cavity is filled. Only thing I can think of is asking the installer if I can look though the entire wall with his borescope but I don't think this is practical..

Im no expert but think it depends on how old you house is. Mines 1936 and the cavity is next to none, been advised not to have it filled as it can cause damp to seep through to the inner walls. I think my only viable  option is cladding the exterior wall. 

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32 minutes ago, tinker said:

Im no expert but think it depends on how old you house is. Mines 1936 and the cavity is next to none, been advised not to have it filled as it can cause damp to seep through to the inner walls. I think my only viable  option is cladding the exterior wall. 

Insulating Render is also an option but your house may not be suitable for that either

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28 minutes ago, tinker said:

Im no expert but think it depends on how old you house is. Mines 1936 and the cavity is next to none, been advised not to have it filled as it can cause damp to seep through to the inner walls. I think my only viable  option is cladding the exterior wall. 

Yeah I read various opinions on it and from what I gather, it depends on how well it is done.. if the cavity is completely filled then happy days but if there are gaps for moisture to get in then there could be problems. Have read that by using a CIGA verified installer you get a 25 year guarantee so if anything does go wrong, it can be fixed but i'd obviously like to avoid that in the first place.

 

53 minutes ago, StefanAVFC said:

Heat pumps are a saviour honestly. 6 grand outlay but electric bills of around 30 quid a month max for everything means we'll probably it off within 2-3 years instead of the 5-7 we originally forecasted.

This will eventually be my aim. Don't really have the space for one in my property at the minute though.

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Good tip if you have a tumble dryer put it on late as the night rate is actually alot cheaper now

 

Also another options get one of these and i use it more than tumble dryers ans it really is significantly cheaper. I think its like 6p a hour electric

 

IMG-20230112-WA0001.jpg

Edited by Demitri_C
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2 minutes ago, Wainy316 said:

When do we get the benefit of the plummeting wholesale prices then?

I think the current excuse is that the gas storage is pretty full due to a mild winter so there isn’t much space to fill up at the lower price.

However, I reckon if something disrupts supply again the price will certainly go up.

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