The DIY thread

[blandy]

31 minutes ago, Chindie said:

Here's a post I thought I'd never make...

I am useless at anything DIY. I can remember my dad seemingly doing anything like this with his eyes closed (I even helped with the menial tasks a few times). Yet I have attempted to put some shelves up using brackets and I seem to have made a complete pigs ear of it, to the extent it seems like I should reset the whole thing and let someone else do it.

My question - what would you use to fill some fairly large, deep holes in brick on an interior wall that could then be used to drill into and fix shelves to?

You can get brick filler from B&Q and other DIY places. It comes as a powder that you mix with water and then fill in holes - it's obviously brick coloured, so if you have exposed brickwork, it looks less obvious. If the brick is pained over, or behind plater, you could just use polyfilla or similar.

If you go to a DIY shop and ask them, they should find a suitable product for you - some filler is not ideal for fillling large holes and then drilling into, other is fine for exactly that - also depends a bit what load the shelf will be bearing, and whether the shelf bracket is supported by more than one screw - could you position the shelf so it doesn't need the hole drilling into the repaired part of the wall, for example?

Oh, and the other thing is how deep is the hole in the brick - maybe a longer screw would go through the repair and into the remaining brick?

[Xann]

41 minutes ago, Chindie said:

My question - what would you use to fill some fairly large, deep holes in brick on an interior wall that could then be used to drill into and fix shelves to?

If you're just needing a box rather than a sack? I've found Tetrion to behave much better when it's applied, rather than the DIY shops' own brand stuff. Homebase muck I've bought previously was much more prone to sticking to the scraper or bulging.

[Rds1983]

19 hours ago, Chindie said:

Here's a post I thought I'd never make...

I am useless at anything DIY. I can remember my dad seemingly doing anything like this with his eyes closed (I even helped with the menial tasks a few times). Yet I have attempted to put some shelves up using brackets and I seem to have made a complete pigs ear of it, to the extent it seems like I should reset the whole thing and let someone else do it.

My question - what would you use to fill some fairly large, deep holes in brick on an interior wall that could then be used to drill into and fix shelves to?

How large are the holes and can you work around them or do you need to re-drill where they are? Are the bricks going to be visible or are they covered in plaster? 

As @blandy says there's brick filler available or potentially pre-mixed filler (cheap and easy) could work to just tidy things up if you can utilise the brick to make the bracket secure. 

[Rds1983]

Anyone got any tips for finding electrical cables hidden in walls? I've got a stud finder with AC detection but I don't trust how reliable it is. Should I just get a better one or does anyone know an easier/cheaper way (like using magnets to find hidden screws)? 

[blandy]

21 hours ago, Rds1983 said:

Anyone got any tips for finding electrical cables hidden in walls? I've got a stud finder with AC detection but I don't trust how reliable it is. Should I just get a better one or does anyone know an easier/cheaper way (like using magnets to find hidden screws)? 

Apart from your current detector tool, the only thing I can think of is that (in theory) cables should run vertically up / down from sockets and switches. If you take the cover plate off, then you can often see which direction the power cable is coming from. I dunno what you mean about hidden screws, the cable will likely run in a galvanised metal channel thingy, which maybe fixed with screws or nails, perhaps, but you’re basically looking at metal either way. If you’re worried about drilling into a wall where you’re not certain there’s no cable, then if you can, turn the power off to that part of the house and use a battery powered drill or an extension lead from a different circuit.  At least you won’t dead yourself that way.

[Rds1983]

8 minutes ago, blandy said:

Apart from your current detector tool, the only thing I can think of is that (in theory) cables should run vertically up / down from sockets and switches. If you take the cover plate off, then you can often see which direction the power cable is coming from. I dunno what you mean about hidden screws, the cable will likely run in a galvanised metal channel thingy, which maybe fixed with screws or nails, perhaps, but you’re basically looking at metal either way. If you’re worried about drilling into a wall where you’re not certain there’s no cable, then if you can, turn the power off to that part of the house and use a battery powered drill or an extension lead from a different circuit.  At least you won’t dead yourself that way.

Having replaced a few face plates in the house I've seen a few cables which appear to run horizontally. The wall I need to drill into is a thin plaster board one and I'll be drilling between two sockets on the other side of that. I should be absolutely fine but sods law I could go ever so slightly to far through and clip a random cable. I think I'll just make some small holes by hand and feel about with a screwdriver to try and find any cables. 

The magnet and screw thing wasn't for finding cables but is a handy trick for finding studs, nails, screws hidden in walls. I was hoping for some similar trick to find cables. 

[blandy]

1 hour ago, Rds1983 said:

I've seen a few cables which appear to run horizontally.

Yep, me too. Cooker power switch thing, to a wall socket. That’s why I bought a current detector thingy. 

[Rds1983]

Just now, blandy said:

Yep, me too. Cooker power switch thing, to a wall socket. That’s why I bought a current detector thingy. 

Do you find it works well? My stud finder has an AC function but it just goes off all the time and is completely unreliable. 

[blandy]

7 minutes ago, Rds1983 said:

Do you find it works well? My stud finder has an AC function but it just goes off all the time and is completely unreliable. 

Mine is a current detector and it works fine

[Xann]

9 hours ago, Rds1983 said:

Do you find it works well? My stud finder has an AC function but it just goes off all the time and is completely unreliable. 

I'm seeing newer ones that look like Fluke meters, but my one is old style like this and there is a knack to calibrating them before they'll work properly.

The rotary switch that you turn it on with also adjusts sensitivity.

Roll it just over the click point, it turns on but it's not very sensitive.  Keep turning and eventually (I'm guessing) it detects itself and just beeps constantly. Obviously the ideal point is somewhere between the two.

I calibrate mine above a light switch where I know there's a single live cable running down to it. Slowly increase the sensitivity from the click point, whilst moving the scanner left and right over where you know the cable to be. It should start beeping as it passes over the cable then going quiet as you move it away. A bit of fine adjustment up and down on the rotary switch to tighten the 'line' suggested by the beep. Then it should be ready to be used elsewhere.

Hope that makes sense, if it's relevant to your detector?

[Rds1983]

7 hours ago, Xann said:

I'm seeing newer ones that look like Fluke meters, but my one is old style like this and there is a knack to calibrating them before they'll work properly.

The rotary switch that you turn it on with also adjusts sensitivity.

Roll it just over the click point, it turns on but it's not very sensitive.  Keep turning and eventually (I'm guessing) it detects itself and just beeps constantly. Obviously the ideal point is somewhere between the two.

I calibrate mine above a light switch where I know there's a single live cable running down to it. Slowly increase the sensitivity from the click point, whilst moving the scanner left and right over where you know the cable to be. It should start beeping as it passes over the cable then going quiet as you move it away. A bit of fine adjustment up and down on the rotary switch to tighten the 'line' suggested by the beep. Then it should be ready to be used elsewhere.

Hope that makes sense, if it's relevant to your detector?

Mine just sucks to be honest with you. Massively oversensitive and goes mental when I know there's not cables there and sometimes manages to not detect where I know cables are. I suspect it's trying to kill me. 

[sidcow]

On 14/05/2022 at 12:46, blandy said:

Mine is a current detector and it works fine

Even on raisins? I'm always getting them confused so that sounds like a really helpful device. 

Edited May 18, 2022 by sidcow

[foreveryoung]

Okay not really DIY, but we are thinking of going for the Kitchen extension, you know single storey, Bi-fold doors. What I wanted to ask is, if anybody has had it done and what the best way of financing it. It's probably gonna be in the region of 60K. Is it just a case of a re-mortgage plus savings, or is there other ways of financing this?  Only been in our new house for about 5 years, so didn't really want to re-mortgage at this stage.

[sidcow]

3 hours ago, foreveryoung said:

Okay not really DIY, but we are thinking of going for the Kitchen extension, you know single storey, Bi-fold doors. What I wanted to ask is, if anybody has had it done and what the best way of financing it. It's probably gonna be in the region of 60K. Is it just a case of a re-mortgage plus savings, or is there other ways of financing this?  Only been in our new house for about 5 years, so didn't really want to re-mortgage at this stage.

We did it but was funded as part of the overall mortgage deal when moving home. 

As far as I am aware mortgage is still the cheapest way. You can get home improvement loans over a long period but I think rates are still higher than mortgages. 

All I know is that we have I would estimate 4 or 5 times the cupboard space as we did in the tiny galley kitchen at our old house and every mm is full so it doesn't seem to matter how much extra space you get, you will fill it. 

[Rob182]

9 hours ago, foreveryoung said:

Okay not really DIY, but we are thinking of going for the Kitchen extension, you know single storey, Bi-fold doors. What I wanted to ask is, if anybody has had it done and what the best way of financing it. It's probably gonna be in the region of 60K. Is it just a case of a re-mortgage plus savings, or is there other ways of financing this?  Only been in our new house for about 5 years, so didn't really want to re-mortgage at this stage.

I’m going through the same thing right now, but for a 2-storey extension for the whole width of the house, so the cost is basically double yours. Other than savings, I’m currently going down the route of adding the required additional money onto the mortgage - which isn’t up for renewal until next April, but the builders are coming in Jan, so from December to April I think we’ll have the new borrowing on a variable rate deal, meaning that in April we can renew our whole mortgage and the new borrowing all together on a fixed one.

I thought this was the best way to do it, but funnily enough, yesterday we had the call with the mortgage advisor from our mortgage company, and he did ask if we’d looked into other lending alternatives as we may be able to find a better deal. I didn’t even know what he was referring to, as I figured most loans would have been over <10 years.

[rjw63]

Looks like I might have found an inexpensive car item that actually works.

The Sealy Headlight Restorer Kit is a tenner on amazon, and I was very doubtful it would work on my 20 year old totally clouded to **** lenses.

Very pleased with the outcome:

Before:

After:

Be interesed to see how long it lasts.

Edited June 21, 2022 by rjw63
fat fingers = keeeeenan post-a-like

[blandy]

2 minutes ago, rjw63 said:

Looks like I might have found an inexpensive car item that actually works.

The Sealy Headlight Restorer Kit is a tenner on amazon, and I was very doubtful it would work on my 20 year old totally cloded to **** lenses.

Very pleased with the outcome:

Before:

After:

Be interesed to see how long it lasts.

Toothpaste works for that, too. Use white spirit first to degrease and remove general grime, then use toothpaste and a polisher, or cloth to really buff away all the tiny abrasions and embedded grime and then finally wash off, dry and glass or plastic polish as appropriate.

But your kit and you look to have done a fine job, Rob.

[Seat68]

My electric tripped last night and I narrowed it down to the conservatory Mcb. Now in there I have a lamp and an Alexa plugged in and I have been working in there happily for a couple of days. Not sure what is tripping it or the course of action to resolve it. Old fashioned fuse boxes would see me change the fuse but it’s just the mcb tripping. Any guidance?

[tinker]

45 minutes ago, Seat68 said:

My electric tripped last night and I narrowed it down to the conservatory Mcb. Now in there I have a lamp and an Alexa plugged in and I have been working in there happily for a couple of days. Not sure what is tripping it or the course of action to resolve it. Old fashioned fuse boxes would see me change the fuse but it’s just the mcb tripping. Any guidance?

Is it an RCD or an MCB that's tripping? If it's the MCB then it's down to much current being used which if all you have is lamp and an Alexa on the circuit then it seems unlikely it would be either of those unless they have a fault. Unplug one of them and see if the fault reoccurs, if it does then unplug the other. 

[Seat68]

All power is off in the conservatory. All switches off, put the breaker to on and it trips the electric.