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mjmooney

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Anyone ever swapped a swing door out for a sliding one? Curious how tricky and fiddly it is? Having watched some videos on YouTube, I reckon I could do it but it might be quite tricky (ensuring snug fit etc) and it might be easier to just pay for it to be done.

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1 minute ago, Rds1983 said:

Anyone ever swapped a swing door out for a sliding one? Curious how tricky and fiddly it is? Having watched some videos on YouTube, I reckon I could do it but it might be quite tricky (ensuring snug fit etc) and it might be easier to just pay for it to be done.

B&Qit all and the like sell the whole kits for sliding doors. They’re not cheap. I guess the question I’d have is around after having unscrewed and removed the “normal” door, whether you want to do all the remedial tidying up or replacement of the existing door frame. Fitting the sliding door kit would seem to be fairly straightforward if you’ve got the tools, someone to help with the heavy stuff, ideally, and the ability to, you know, not make a mess of it.

I must admit, I’ve got a double sliding door (already there) which is not aligned properly and I’ve been putting off fixing it for around, er…5 years. Gonna do it soon. Honest. One sliding door feels a lot simpler than two which should, but don’t, meet in the middle.

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29 minutes ago, Rds1983 said:

Anyone ever swapped a swing door out for a sliding one? Curious how tricky and fiddly it is? Having watched some videos on YouTube, I reckon I could do it but it might be quite tricky (ensuring snug fit etc) and it might be easier to just pay for it to be done.

Is the sliding door being fixed to a solid wall or a stud wall?

If its being fixed to a stud wall and the new door is only being supported from the top, is there something in that stud wall at the right height to fix your rail in to? If there isn’t then you have to take the face of the wall off and it all gets a bit bothersome. If there is already a bit of timber stud in the right place, happy days.

If its a brick wall anyway, happy days, if its a block wall then very probably happy days.

Feeling super adventurous? Hang your sliding door, then build another line of partition in front of it so when the door is ‘open’ its disappeared in to the wall.

 

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1 hour ago, chrisp65 said:

Is the sliding door being fixed to a solid wall or a stud wall?

If its being fixed to a stud wall and the new door is only being supported from the top, is there something in that stud wall at the right height to fix your rail in to? If there isn’t then you have to take the face of the wall off and it all gets a bit bothersome. If there is already a bit of timber stud in the right place, happy days.

If its a brick wall anyway, happy days, if its a block wall then very probably happy days.

Feeling super adventurous? Hang your sliding door, then build another line of partition in front of it so when the door is ‘open’ its disappeared in to the wall.

 

It's a stud wall but I can find the timbers easy enough. 

I'd need it to fit tight though as it'd be on the kitchen and I'd want to keep any potential smoke from cooking in. Why I'm thinking of paying for it to be done.

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1 minute ago, Rds1983 said:

It's a stud wall but I can find the timbers easy enough. 

I'd need it to fit tight though as it'd be on the kitchen and I'd want to keep any potential smoke from cooking in. Why I'm thinking of paying for it to be done.

If the cooking smells are a real issue, I’m not sure a standard sliding door would suit you. It’s notoriously difficult to get a sliding door that seals, that’s why you’d so rarely see them as a fire door. I guess the way to know that, is if you would ordinarily shut the existing door when you’re cooking.

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Was gonna say similar. The sliding doors I have, have a gap of about 1 cm between them and the wall and there’s nearly always gonna be some gap, because of the runner thingies at the bottom, if not the top as well.

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34 minutes ago, chrisp65 said:

If the cooking smells are a real issue, I’m not sure a standard sliding door would suit you. It’s notoriously difficult to get a sliding door that seals, that’s why you’d so rarely see them as a fire door. I guess the way to know that, is if you would ordinarily shut the existing door when you’re cooking.

It's not so much the smells it's more when something gets burnt and we need to close the doors to stop the smoke alarms going off.

Thinking it's not going to work. 

Shame as the current swing door is right in the way.

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36 minutes ago, Rds1983 said:

It's not so much the smells it's more when something gets burnt and we need to close the doors to stop the smoke alarms going off.

Thinking it's not going to work. 

Shame as the current swing door is right in the way.

If a normal door is taking up too much space when you open it would a bi fold door potentially be a better option for you?

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28 minutes ago, markavfc40 said:

If a normal door is taking up too much space when you open it would a bi fold door potentially be a better option for you?

Wife doesn't like them for some reason. We're probably remodelling at some point so think we'll just leave it as is until then. 

I offered to flip the door so that it opens outwards instead and she vetoed that so I'll leave it.

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After some plumbing advice. 

We had a new shower fitted a couple of years ago. Two valves, one to turn off and on and one to control temp. 

The issue is no matter what you do to the temp one nothing changes. 

Luckily the temperature was fine so I've never bothered with it and the guy who fitted it was a bit useless so I didn't want him back. 

However it's starting to annoy me. Especially now the kids are starting to use the shower.

Is this an easy fix or am I best just paying someone?

 

 

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11 minutes ago, DCJonah said:

After some plumbing advice. 

We had a new shower fitted a couple of years ago. Two valves, one to turn off and on and one to control temp. 

The issue is no matter what you do to the temp one nothing changes. 

Luckily the temperature was fine so I've never bothered with it and the guy who fitted it was a bit useless so I didn't want him back. 

However it's starting to annoy me. Especially now the kids are starting to use the shower.

Is this an easy fix or am I best just paying someone?

Just to be clear how are they fed? Is it like those hotel ones, where you kind of pull a lever outwards to let water out and a rotary control to adjust temp?  I guess those types, the on control   is just a tap, in essence, whereas the temp control is like a mixer tap. If that’s right, then the mixer/temp controller is not working, perhaps because the actual valve part is not being turned by the handle part. Does that make sense?  Is there much resistance in the temp one? Does it turn easy, or is it really stiff (Kenny)? Can you access the water pipes feeding into the controls anywhere?  To feel the temp of them?

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Could be a couple of reasons depending on how the shower is fed. 
 

i) Failed/passing value. Pretty easy to replace.

ii) Water pressure/flow too high. The shower will have the capacity to heat x amount of water in a given time. If the flow is too high it might just be that the shower hasn’t got the bollocks to heat it. In this case just reduce the flow. 
 

 

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2 minutes ago, av1 said:

Could be a couple of reasons depending on how the shower is fed. 
 

i) Failed/passing value. Pretty easy to replace.

ii) Water pressure/flow too high. The shower will have the capacity to heat x amount of water in a given time. If the flow is too high it might just be that the shower hasn’t got the bollocks to heat it. In this case just reduce the flow. 

I’m assuming it’s not an electric shower as the question talked about valves, rather than whatever the name is for the switches/dials on electric ones. So I assume the shower is either a pump or uses a boilers built in pump, plus cold water mains pressure but either way doesn’t heat the water itself. May have assumed more than I should?

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4 minutes ago, blandy said:

I’m assuming it’s not an electric shower as the question talked about valves, rather than whatever the name is for the switches/dials on electric ones. So I assume the shower is either a pump or uses a boilers built in pump, plus cold water mains pressure but either way doesn’t heat the water itself. May have assumed more than I should?

You could be right. The sort of system you posted the video for above can be fed from an electric instantaneous heater, or as you say, direct from the boiler. Would probably need Jonah to provide a bit more info. 

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Thanks guys, I knew it get some good responses. 

It's basically the same as in the attached pic. 

Not much resistance at all, moves round very easily. 

I'm sure it's heated through the combi boiler and I don't think there's anyway to feel the pipes as the valves are fitted in the titles. 

I guess I could try and take the cover off. 

I should admit I'm both clueless and awful at DIY. Being the son of a man in the building trade has meant I've never had to learn things for myself. Which now sounds very pathetic when I see it written down. 

frontline-pure-twin-concealed-thermostatic-shower-valve-with-diverter.jpg

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24 minutes ago, DCJonah said:

Thanks guys, I knew it get some good responses. 

It's basically the same as in the attached pic. 

Not much resistance at all, moves round very easily. 

I'm sure it's heated through the combi boiler and I don't think there's anyway to feel the pipes as the valves are fitted in the titles. 

I guess I could try and take the cover off. 

I should admit I'm both clueless and awful at DIY. Being the son of a man in the building trade has meant I've never had to learn things for myself. Which now sounds very pathetic when I see it written down. 

frontline-pure-twin-concealed-thermostatic-shower-valve-with-diverter.jpg

Here is a manual for a Triton  system. If you know the make of yours even better, but all thermostatic showers work the same so this will give you an idea of how they work. 
 

A hot and cold feed will enter the mixer valve and your operation regulates how much cold water moves through the valve, which obviously alters the temperature. These come with built in anti scald protection so they can be set to only reach a certain temperature, it’s a requirement in places like hospitals to set these about 40 degrees. 
 

So if yours wasn’t getting pipping hot but you could still alter the temperature I’d say it was simply set too low. However, as you’ve said the dial does nothing if I was to hazard a guess Id say that the head (the bit you’re turning) simply isn’t seating correctly on the valve, so it isn’t actually opening/closing the value, and your only getting whatever it’s currently set at. 
 

Try taking it off to see if it’s seated. Do you know the make/model? 
 

 

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59 minutes ago, DCJonah said:

Thanks guys, I knew it get some good responses. 

It's basically the same as in the attached pic. 

Not much resistance at all, moves round very easily. 

I'm sure it's heated through the combi boiler and I don't think there's anyway to feel the pipes as the valves are fitted in the titles. 

I guess I could try and take the cover off. 

I should admit I'm both clueless and awful at DIY. Being the son of a man in the building trade has meant I've never had to learn things for myself. Which now sounds very pathetic when I see it written down. 

frontline-pure-twin-concealed-thermostatic-shower-valve-with-diverter.jpg

If its going round real easy it could be something as simple as the grub screw isnt tight on the actual valve.  It then could be the mixer valve cartridge (maybe replacable depending on model) or the whole thing could be ballsed.  Process of elimination.

 

I've put one in recently and due to the particulars of the mixer valve unit i had to design it so it was easy to cut a hole in the plasterboard from the back if it needed fixing rather than take tiles off.

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