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The DIY thread


mjmooney

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2 minutes ago, bickster said:

Rumours of the reintroducion of the window tax?

That honestly made me chuckle.

Either side has the little window and I think it looks quite nice, god knows why they bricked it up..

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It does make me wonder why they decided to paint only that small section.  Might the bricks be mismatched?  If they are, it will look terrible whatever you do. When you move in its worth chatting to neighbours.  They often remember what was there before. 

FWIW I li,e the idea of getting rod of 1 of those doors. I assumed the house was split into 2 flats when I saw it. 

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32 minutes ago, Mandy Lifeboats said:

It does make me wonder why they decided to paint only that small section.  Might the bricks be mismatched?  If they are, it will look terrible whatever you do. When you move in its worth chatting to neighbours.  They often remember what was there before. 

FWIW I li,e the idea of getting rod of 1 of those doors. I assumed the house was split into 2 flats when I saw it. 

Thats a fair point Mandy, I hadnt considered that. Though the house is terraced, every house in the row is the same design with the two doors, so I'd hope that isn't the case. 

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1 hour ago, Mandy Lifeboats said:

 

FWIW I li,e the idea of getting rod of 1 of those doors. I assumed the house was split into 2 flats when I saw it. 

The the only issue with that is because it's a terrace, there is no entry to the rear. The back door that leads to the back garden is in the kitchen, so I guess a door at the front of the house that leads straight into the kitchen makes it easier to get stuff to the back garden.

Edited by av1
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50 minutes ago, av1 said:

The the only issue with that is because it's a terrace, there is no entry to the rear. The back door that leads to the back garden is in the kitchen, so I guess a door at the front of the house that leads straight into the kitchen makes it easier to get stuff to the back garden.

carry on teacher GIF

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51 minutes ago, av1 said:

The the only issue with that is because it's a terrace, there is no entry to the rear. The back door that leads to the back garden is in the kitchen, so I guess a door at the front of the house that leads straight into the kitchen makes it easier to get stuff to the back garden.

Without seeing a floor plan it's difficult to comment on which door to get rid of, but the door we usually use is straight into the kitchen. Makes it a lot easier when unloading the shopping. 

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3 minutes ago, Rds1983 said:

Without seeing a floor plan it's difficult to comment on which door to get rid of, but the door we usually use is straight into the kitchen. Makes it a lot easier when unloading the shopping. 

That's the plan mate

rsz_img_20201225_204700.jpg

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Just now, av1 said:

 

ed5562c94667ac5a2946582265887e8a24992476.jpg

Much easier to look at lol

The question for me would be how wide /open is the door from the hall to the kitchen? If it's narrow then go with the kitchen route, if not then it still looks like a pretty straightforward run through to the back garden. Also, how often will going straight through be a concern for you and what will you be carrying? If it's just general garden stuff then you can make it work either way. 

An entrance to the hall makes more sense, would possibly help when you come to resell and makes the hall not dead space but at the end of the day just go with whatever you decide is best as you have to live with this house. 

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Bathroom door lock has been sticking.  I bought it a couple of years ago, cheapest I could get because we're due to replace all doors and handles next year. 

It's never really worked properly but it's begun to stick REALLY badly, had to practically barge the door open this morning. 

Anyway I took it off and identified it was definitely the handle.  Bloody stupid design wouldn't let it fully retract to fully turn the spindle. 

Anyway, Mrs Sidcow bought be a Dremel Multi tool for Xmas so I removed the handles and used the grinding tool to take a mm or so off the edge of part of the mechanism and hey presto, it now works fine. 

Not only saved me money on buying a new handle, but also gave me much satisfaction in getting a job done and using my wife's Christmas Present to boot. 

Jobs a good un. 

Edited by sidcow
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  • 2 weeks later...

Prepping to install new laminate flooring. Start pulling the old crappy one out and the vapor/foam layer underneath is interesting as there is huge writing and branding facing down. I lift some up and in giant font... this side up. FFS. Not that surprising as they'd already installed the floating floor jammed up tight against every wall, sigh!

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  • 2 months later...

Anyone sanded pine floors before? I helped with one years ago but didn't really know what I was doing and I left a few unsightly marks, but I was sanding a floor that had 4 layers of paint on it. These floors either have one coat or none.

I'm renting a belt sander, edger and orbital buffer.

Planning on starting with 40 grit, then 60, then 80.

Any advice? @mjmooney

Edited by maqroll
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45 minutes ago, maqroll said:

Planning on starting with 40 grit, then 60, then 80.

This reckons different

Quote

In the interest of saving money, you may opt to sand your own pine floors. All this requires is the hire of the high-quality tools that we supply here a The Floor Sander Hire Co. Some of the companies you hire in to do the job may only be interested in the pay. However, sanding pine floors does not always have to be an expert-only job. With time you’ll benefit from the importance of doing this job for yourself. You save some money and the quality of work you do is better. Though most floors are made of hardwood, pine is a soft wood. The procedure used for sanding softwood floors is not the same as the one for hardwood floors. A gentle and soft touch is a very important consideration when doing this job. An electric sanding machine is the best choice if you want to complete the work quickly, though doing it by hand is still an alternative.

What you will need

In order to be able to do your floor sanding work satisfactorily, you will need the following equipment:

A belt sander

An 80, 100, 150, and 220-grit sandpapers

A Hand disc sander

A good quality vacuum

Procedure...

Floor Sanders London (more on link)

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On 15/03/2021 at 20:24, maqroll said:

His advice is on the higher end of what I've seen online. And I'm dealing with paint.

Surely you'll want to finish with something well over 100 grit though. The rough stuff will plough through that paint easy peasy.

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